The 2009 Zinfandel is the 2008 times two. Partly I think the growing season was better here on the mountain, but the experience of the previous vintage also helped. For everything that came in before the first big rain October 12th, the growing season was pretty uneventful. For Zinfandel, this lack of drama is crucial to the quality of the fruit. There are more savory notes to this wine than 2008, which helps mark its place of origin more acutely. The wine leads with cracked black pepper, beef blood, and white and red floral notes. The spicy fruit takes over on the palate with a mix of kirsch, black cherries, and what can only be described as "Zinberry" (though we've still never seen one) that balances the brambly, briary structure of Howell Mountain. I feel like I've been talking about this wine since it went to barrel... so I'm happy it's finally time to give everyone else a taste.
It’s nice to finally roll this wine out. Having never worked with the Black-Sears Vineyard Cabernet before, I had no idea what to expect when this fruit came in late October of 2008. The wine has exceeded all of our expectations. The density of the palate alone reflects the vintage with the wine being built like a ’02 Cabernet. The nose features notes of espresso roast, pain grille and black currants. Palate weight on this wine comes quickly saturated with milk chocolate, blackberries and mocha. The Howell Mountain tannins do creep in at the end providing some delineation to the wine, keeping it focused and true to its hillside origins.
This year we are trying something new and introducing a rich, complex co-fermented blend of 50% Cabernet Franc and 50% Cabernet Sauvignon. The Cabernet Franc offers hints of violet in the nose - characteristic to the varietal - along with the more classic Howell Mountain components of black pepper and blackberries. Softened considerably since bottling, it has evolved into a dark, fruit-focused wine with a mineral component and elements of balsam, blueberries, camphor, and sandalwood. It possesses the boldness of the vintage without the tannic wallop that makes some 2006 Cabernet-based wines unapproachable at this point. This wine tastes best after breathing so we recommend decanting it as the exposure to air really gives the wine a chance to shine. Without a doubt, this is our best (and only) Bordeaux blend ever!
Usually the Zinfandels from Black Sears have a significant tannin backbone. The 2006 vintage is an exception to that rule. The long summer and extended hang time gave the tannins plenty of time to mature and the resulting wine is wonderfully soft. One finds aromas of Damson and Santa Rosa plum as well as blueberry and sweet cinnamon and clove. With air, lavender and rose petal appear and finally, the characteristic orange zest, which is one of the signature aromatic notes in zinfandels from this property. The wine is rich, sweet and full without being overly heavy and it has such integrated, smooth tannins that it has been a pleasure to taste since the day it finished fermenting. It will be very enjoyable immediately and will show well for another 10 years.
The 2004 vintage is exceptionally elegant and well rounded. It also has unusually bright, red fruit tones along with the plum and blackberry tones that Black Sears Cabernets are known for. There is a fresh tobacco leaf note with outstanding mid-palate richness and a soft, graceful finish. The tannins are well integrated, and this wine will drink much better at a younger age than is typical of this estate and of Howell Mountain in general.
